Gulabsingh Johrimal
Founded 1816
Lala Gulab Singh, who came to Delhi from Jhajjar, and his son Lala Johrimal opened this perfumery in Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk area in 1816. The family, now in its eighth generation, still runs the original shop at 320 Dariba Kalan. It is known for ruh (pure distilled flower extracts) and attars made by the deg-bhapka method, with rose sandalwood ruh as its best-known scent.
Hours and prices change, so check with the shop before you go.
Gulabsingh Johrimal, Old Delhi's attar house since 1816
Gulabsingh Johrimal was founded in 1816 in Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi, by Lala Gulab Singh, who came from Jhajjar in today's Haryana, and his son Lala Johrimal. The shop became known as Gulab Gundhi Ki Dukaan; gundhi comes from the Sanskrit gandha, fragrance. The Gundhi family still runs it, now in its eighth generation. It is commonly believed its itrs served the court of the Mughal emperor Akbar Shah II, though Sahapedia notes the early history is not clearly recorded.
The house makes ruh, pure flower extracts, and attars, flower distillates matured over sandalwood oil. Natural itrs come from deg-bhapka distillation, in which copper stills, the deg, feed receivers, the bhapka. Sahapedia calls it a costly, labour-intensive process done near the raw materials rather than in big cities, and the shop buys its mitti itr mainly from Kannauj. Alongside perfume it sells incense, oils and soaps.
In Delhi, go to its own shop at 320 Dariba Kalan, Chandni Chowk, Delhi 110006. Staff keep the old custom of offering a drop of attar on the back of your hand, and the shelves hold antique Belgian-cut bottles. On the house's site Ruh Juhi costs ₹6,000 for 10 g, and Exotic Rose costs ₹600 for 9 g. Try a rose first: Ruh-e-Gulab, rose essence on sandalwood oil, is its best-known natural itr.
- Ruh JuhiDistilled from juhi jasmine blossoms that open at dusk, creamy and honeyed with a green edge.
- Ruh KamalThe pure extract of the pink lotus, the flower that rises clean above the mud.
- Exotic RoseA tour of rose country, from Kashan in Iran and Isparta in Turkey to the rose fields of Hasayan in India.
- Synthetic MittiA recreation of mitti attar, the smell of wet earth after the first monsoon rain.
- Exotic SandalA homage to Mysore sandalwood, earthy, creamy and rich.
Where to buy
- Own shop, 320 Dariba Kalan, Chandni Chowk, Delhi 110006
- Online at gulabsinghjohrimal.co.in
In our city guides
- Gulabsingh Johrimal, Dariba Kalan (Boutique, Delhi)